Showing posts with label Bosnia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bosnia. Show all posts

Saturday, September 3, 2011

BOSNIA (Part II)


Welcome to Bosnia (again)!
As my post below explains, I took a much-needed relaxing vacation to Bosnia this summer.  Here are some things I found striking in their cultural richness and unexpected variety, through the lens of an American artist on vacation.
A 500-year-old mosque
I love the details on these buildings
Reminder of the war- have you seen a shell-blast before?  These buildings were everywhere, but quickly being re-developed.
A shiny, state-of-the-art mall in Sarajevo
Those stone walls are the original, centuries-old mall
Graffiti is huge
My boyfriend's great-grandmother!
His great-grandfather was a kind of aristocrat and here is his  adjutant
Gorgeous mountain scenery everywhere
Village life- my boyfriend's cousin's second home
He bought this "village house" for $25,000!
I was totally obsessed with these gnome hut-like haystacks everywhere
A village
Back in Sarajevo- some art nouveau
We found this great art cafe called the Goldfish
It's bohemian insides
Where else can you get 40 homemade cookies for $10?
A fair came to town- here is my boyfriend's cousin and his baby Mirza, who at age one had a better Bosnian vocabulary.
There was really dramatic weather a lot of the time.  Here the heavens are opening up.
In our Sarajevo apartment, remnants of a grenade blast
I said goodbye to my sweet boyfriend.
When I came home I gave my dad a fez.


BOSNIA (Part I)

Welcome to Bosnia

This blog has been neglected like a brace-faced, sunburned, and uncombed red-headed step child.  I intend to post a ton about art in the near future.  However, as it goes in the summer, the art world takes a vacation and as it so happens, so did I.  I journeyed long and far to distant Eastern Europe, where my boyfriend, a native, has been staying for a while.  Having been there once before, I knew the language barrier would be my biggest obstacle, so I brought along books in English by some authors I came to think of as friends:  Willa Cather, Gustave Flaubert, Ernest Hemmingway, Vladimir Nabokov, and Dave Hickey.  I also brought a travel case of art supplies, and a suitcase of clothes I imagined epitomizing chic European travel. While I ended up taking a break from art completely, I did take in my travels like an artist would, focusing on beauty and details.  Here are some moments of beauty and culture I found myself inspired or surprised by.

In case you don't know, (and it's OK if you don't- I spend a lot of time explaining this to my family), Bosnia and Herzegovina is a very, very old country on the Western end of Eastern Europe, situated close to Italy and Germany.  It became part of communist Yugoslavia after WWII, but like Germany, eventually went back to the way it was, (for the most part), after forty or so years of Communist ways.

There it is- that little green country across the water from Italy's boot.

Unlike Germany, however, Yugoslavia had to endure a very bitter and bloody breakup with Serbia and Croatia first, leaving scars of genocide and fucked up reminders of human cruelty scattered across the Muslim towns and villages of Bosnia.  It's been 15 years since the war, and there has been a ton of development and revitalization.  It's still a terrible world economy, however, and countries like Bosnia bear the brunt of a lot of the world's financial instability.  I was reminded many times of my privileged American expectations in a still-developing country, like, where are the art galleries?  That said, it also has so many amazing things that we don't have, like a wealth of history, amazing, normally-free range and organic food, relaxing night life, and cheap beer.

Tuzla
I did a lot of this
And a lot of this- I ate amazing meals like oven-roasted trout for about $5
Tuzla's main square
Sarajevo's old town back streets
Old town tourist route
Beautiful, Austro-Hungarian details

I love these reliefs
There's no way I could find something like these mysterious doors in Oakland
Gypsy wedding!

Punk is not dead- it's just in Bosnia
Fakes, fakes, fakes- I could have dressed in knock-offs head-to-toe
I got stiffed with fake money, too
Look at the size of this beer!  2 Liters!
There are homeless dogs and kitties everywhere that the townspeople collectively feed.  I made little friends all over town.
A wild cat
This swan almost bit me, though
What a cute little buddy!
My favorite one

Stay tuned for Part II !

Monday, March 15, 2010

Bosnian Loot

My boyfriend and I got the chance to go to Bosnia a couple years ago. Here is some awesome loot I scored while I was there. The shoes are handmade, and the jewelry was dirt cheap! I got the gypsy tassel earrings for $2, the geode necklace for $11, and the leather bracelet for $2. The copper and enamel earrings are their traditional craft for lots of things.
At the market in Sarajevo.
I randomly stumbled upon this festival going on in the park with some traditionally dressed Catholic Bosnian dancers. I love those vests!
For some reason I was obsessed with these haystacks. Maybe it was because I was reading Anna Karenina, but they seemed so provincial and cute. All those villagers making big piles without machinery... Tolstoy would have been into it, too.
Beautiful countryside and bombed out buildings scattered around the landscape.
Tuzla
A Bosnian kitty wanted to come home to America!